Not far from the city of Manaus, which has a population of one million, yet still offers a real jungle feel. Ponta Poranga Lodge clearly scores with its location. It’s easily accessible from Manaus, yet you feel like you’re in the middle of nature. For me, a stopover traveler who wants to get a taste of the Amazon without long journeys, this is a clear advantage.
But beware. The arrival and departure alone by a powerful motorized boat and the transfer to and from the airport cost a good 100 euros.
But the cuisine also deserves praise – the food is varied, freshly prepared, and of a quality that pleasantly surprises. The 150 reais for dinner, €23.80, is quite expensive by Brazilian standards. But given the quality, it’s more than reasonable. The grilled fish was excellent!
The fruit juices, which are also very good, go extra, too.
The tours offered, however, are less convincing. While they cover the classic itinerary, the prices are high compared to the service provided. Furthermore, the service and the associated costs aren’t communicated transparently enough upfront, which can lead to disappointment when it comes to billing. They charged me 500 reais for a walk with a local guide and an American, who primarily provided communication. The walk, followed by a short paddle, is then sold as a safari trip. Anyone looking for good value for money should keep this in mind.
On the other hand, you’ll look in vain for expertise in birdwatching. The young, local guide on the walks has a good eye, but the birds don’t seem familiar to him, let alone their voices. When we suddenly hear voices coming from the forest on our first walk, I’m immediately alarmed. There could be a manakin lek here. But there’s simply nothing to be seen. Then I realize that these are probably antbirds on an ant trail. But where are the antbirds? There’s nothing to be seen. On a whim, I climb into the thicket, which is dotted with fallen trees. According to the vocal analysis, the sounds suggest the presence of a Rufous-throated Antbird (Gymnopithys rufigula), an obligate ant-follower that I’d like to photograph. My local guide and the American just stare in surprise. They’ve never seen anything like it before. So, here it’s a case of self-reliance, in this case, the ornithologist. With previous experience with the birds of Brazil, the excellent Merlin app for bird call recognition, a recorder to play the calls, a certain mosquito resistance, and ultimately patience, I was able to see and, in some cases, photograph very well the (Eastern) Long-tailed Hermit (Phaethornis superciliosus), Blackish Nightjar (Caprimulgus nigrescens), Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus pardalotus), Lineated Woodcreeper (Lepidocolaptes albolineatus), Cinereous Antshrike (Thamnomanes caesius), Ferruginous-backed Antbird (Myrmeciza ferruginea), White-eyed Tody-Tyrant (Hemitriccus zosterops), Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet (Tyrannulus elatus), Grey-crowned Flycatcher (Tolmomyias poliocephalus), Golden-headed Manakin (Pipra erythrocephala), White-lored Euphonia (Euphonia chrysopasta) and the Dotted Tanager (Tangara varia).
The lodge itself, with its detached chalets, is simple but functional and clean, and the outdoor area is quite spacious, with a lounge chair and sofa. The refrigerator is outside, which certainly helps with the noise level. The staff is extremely friendly and attentive, even if the organization doesn’t always seem to run smoothly. Of course, only Portuguese is spoken.
Speaking of cleanliness, the surrounding area should also be taken into account. Tree trunks lying across the trails around the lodge have obviously been there for a while. It’s a common occurrence. The lodge grounds are swept to ensure that not a single leaf remains in the “garden,” and the trails are neglected. A two-day effort by an employee with a chainsaw would have been enough to clean them. What a shame.
Just as unfortunate. Yes, we’ve heard of a bird feeder with fruit being used, they say. A dilapidated feeding station also testifies to its long-ago use. However, the feeding station hasn’t been stocked for a long time and is therefore obviously unknown to the birds. In the three days I was there, despite the fruit at the feeding station, I didn’t see a single bird at it.
Overall, the Ponta Poranga Lodge is a good choice for a short stay near Manaus if you value comfort, good food, and a first glimpse into the Amazon’s wildlife. However, if you value fair, transparent prices for excursions, you should be prepared to ask for more details. Also, keep in mind that the bill will include an additional 3.6% fee for card payments.
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